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My first night home I got a phone call from Crystal Thornburg and her boyfriend Dave Homcy. They wanted to know if I wanted to go on an outer island adventure in Aunty Rell Sunns canoe. What an honor I thought to myself and couldn’t think of a better door to open in front of me than the one of my hero, my idol, the Queen of Makaha and the woman who inspired me more than anyone to become a pro surfer.

Crystal and Dave are a happy little couple in my little hometown of Sunset and always have smiles on their faces, boards or swim fins in their hands, and grow a mean garden in their backyard. They eat their own food, drive a biodiesel car, and both have amazing talents in and out of the water. They are role model citizens in my book. Dave is a cinematographer and has been involved with some of my favorite films in surfing such as shelter and sliding Liberia. He has an exceptional eye for his subject and knows how to touch the heart of the viewer and you can really relate and want to go for a surf after you watch his film skills. Crystal Thornburg is a born n bred local girl whom lives the ultimate water lifestyle. She is an accomplished canoe paddler, longboarder, and swimmer. Crystal has a classic longboard style and I am always pleased to watch her surf. She rides for Patagonia and gets to go on cool expeditions and adventures with Dave and her sponsor. I thought she was very courageous going to Liberia with that film crew and hats were off to her. I love her passion for the ocean and for her history of Hawaii and her sense of being a true water woman. She really wants to keep the spirit of Rell alive and I was super honored to be a part of the trip

Before I went on the trip I stopped at one of my besties houses, Jen Homcy which is daves sisters house and the adventure traveler she is loaded me up with the best camping gear a girl could ask for. I had a one man tent, air mattress, junior park ranger coffee mug, waterproof bags, and of course mosquito netting up the butt. I am not a camper. I have not camped in the last 10 years and jen knew this. So she hooked a sister up with some good gear and I felt confident that I wouldn’t get wet, have a sore back, and not get bit by mozzies. It was on, I was going adventuring with a few people whom I didn’t know super super well and were very talented any many aspects of the wonderful ocean I spent every day of my life in.

I checked in 2 waterproof backpacks and some swim fins. This was different for me. No board charges and no duffle bag. I packed very minimally for me and I was curious to see if I would be able to handle wearing the same thing over and over. I kind of have this thing about wearing ultra clean clothes. I was up for the challenge. Ready for an adventure. We landed outer island of Oahu and met one of our guides, uncle Glenn. An amazing Hawaiian man with so many stories to tell. He grew up in Waianae with auntie Rell and he has some stuff to say about her. It was awesome when I first landed to hear all these stories about her. He had a huge mango tree at his house and we picked tons of mangoes for our journey in the canoe. We stopped at the local market and loaded up on some food, then stopped at a friend’s house to grab our veggies. This was awesome to me. We got organic, local veggies and fruit. No hormones, no pesticides and grown from loving hands. Oh how my body was longing for this. And my soul.

We drove to the end of the island; I switched my phone off and was ready to be in the moment. The very moment I was living. No facebook, no skype, no news, no texting, I will be in the moment for a week and this was my vacation. I owed this to myself. I will embark on a journey I have never before been a part of and be with people who are out of my comfort zone.

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I had just surfed uncrowded points in Mexico so I was a bit tired and didn’t mind the two days, 6 airplane meals, fat feet, sore back feeling I was feeling. I traveled with Alana Blanchard there and it amazed me how she slept so much without sleeping pills. Oh to be 19 again. Finally got there and slept for a day. It is the furthest you can go around the world from Hawaii, and I would like to add I think it is the driest! My lips were parched and my skin was flaking off. Crazy how different climates make your body feel different ways? One minute I feel humidified and beautiful and the next I feel dry and wrinkly.

The first day I was in South Africa it was beautiful, crisp weather with 2-3 foot sandbar waves. Pretty fun little shore breaks. Water was nice and just the air was cool. There was lots of talk about the ten-year storm coming and I didn’t believe it. Quite a few girls on tour were staying at the “ secret spot” so it was pretty fun. We would all load up in the VW bus and surf and do grocery shops. It was a hostile type kitchen setting for breakfast but Roz Tammy’s mom and her staff would cook up some mean muffins and delicious dinner every night. Really yummy hearty food to put me to sleep. There was a pool table to occupy us when we were bored. And of course there was wireless Internet and the mass facebook sessions every day. The property was a beautiful little retreat with amazing plants, and surf camp feel. You could see the ocean from the front of the property and watch the sunrise if you were up that early

Well the ten-year storm finally came and I was in disbelief. It looked like sunset beach across the street!!! Fifteen-foot sets and it was the first day of the waiting period. What was I going to do? I had a choice between a 5’9” a 5’9” and hey wait another 5’8” . Ha-ha. I was crapping my pants! Lucky for me it was canceled. I guess I wouldn’t have minded surfing if the wave was rideable but apparently it wasn’t. The following day wasn’t much better but we had to run because unfortunately for us someone allowed a 2 day waiting period for a 2 day running event. Not so bright. These are things that happen I guess. We started the event at 7 a.m. and were told there was a front coming in at 1pm. A BIG front. The girls in the morning were blessed with trestles like rights and super fun looking sections. It showed too, the scores being dropped down were high and everyone was getting super pumped. It was pretty decent size on the sets. Girls like Nicola Atherton, Ornella Pelizzari, Bethany Hamilton, Leilani Gryde, and Alana Blanchard, Sarah Beardmore were all killing it because the surf was solid and they were amped to get something good for a WQS event. I was pumped watching and filming the heats. I drank lots of coffee that morning so I knew I had to battle against the heat amp and the caffeine! But all good, I was heat 9 and I was psyched. Until just before my heat the 50-knot winds started kicking in and I was finding it hard to change into my wetsuit. My little Epoxy board was barely staying under my arm while I was walking down to the rocks for my paddle out. I was also given 20 minutes to get out there. Ok, attempt 1 was unsuccessful. After paddling for ten minutes and getting swept and windblown hundreds of years down the beach I gave up. Got out and ran up the beach and tried again. Once again attempt 2, unsuccessful. 3rd times a charm I guess, finally made it out the back 9 minutes into my heat!!!!! Are you kidding me? Wow. Caught a small wave and scored a 4.5. Washed in again and tried to paddle back out for the fourth time and it was unsuccessful, so I stood up in the white water and scored a .3. Buzzer goes and my heat is done. That was the hardest heat I had ever surfed. I can’t believe it but I made it. Sally got one wave in the heat, a 9 somehow. And not a second one. Third and fourth didn’t score more than 1 point each. Wow! That was crazy. They called it off after my heat and the girls and officials had a crazy meeting about what was going to happen. Because apparently at the end of the day the event was supposed to have been finished. I felt bad for everyone. Especially the girls giving it a real go on the world tour and trying to get points. There were so many mixed emotions because points, money, and time were all on the line. So many emotions especially with a bunch of women were involved. I kind of stood back as the first 14 years of my career were spent with all that emotion and now im just kind of watching it all. But I gave my opinion and tried to help a bit.

In the end the next morning the remainder 3 heats surfed at pretty good chunky surfers point in Ballito. Equal 24th went to the remainder of the girls. And a basic pat on the back and thanks for coming went down. I’m sure it’s not the last the ASP is going to hear from some of the girls. It was a bit of poor judgment but I guess everyone lost out. Sponsors, girls, and Asp . So hopefully we learn from this mistake. Life is about learning I guess.

Well I guess it’s off to the flow rider at the mall and good times before heading back to Cali. Yeoww. Thanks to Tammy and her amazing family. You let me see a different side of South Africa with your gumboot dance and love for your country. What a beautiful place full of so wildlife and big surf.

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Today I went in and discussed some boards for an upcoming trip I’m going to be doing. And we also discussed some small wave boards.  Small waves have always been my weak point so in nailing these boards down it has been key.  I also ordered a fun small wave board that will look very weird but hopefully rides well and just makes me look like a goofball.  Im going on a trip with a bunch of young rippers so i gotta stand out some how.  I usually bring boards in to him. Ill take in some i really like and one  I dont like.  It gives him something to work off that way.  He takes constructive criticism very well and has absolutely no ego. For a shaper that is key, to have no ego because it seriously ruins the communication lines.  As well as for the surfer.  Because sometimes its just me!  haha.  We mainly sit at the computer and he shows me stuff that he thinks will work and I usually agree. I have learned so much working with Eric about bottom contour, rails, rockers, as well as materials used in surfboards.  It has been a very rewarding relationship.  Im stoked I got the chance to talk with Eric before leaving. This summer should be exciting with new equipment under my feet.

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This event is being held in Salinas Ecuador.  To get here was a mission!! Especially with 12 teenagers , 3 coaches, a few sets of parents and long time supporters of amateur surfing.  I’m not used to checking in with so many people, not have my special seat, and being entertained the whole time I travel basically.  It was very different but a good experience for me.  so 3 5 hour plane rides later, mechanical difficulties, and a few layovers we were finally in Ecuador.

The past few days have been spent prepping the kids for competition.  I did a bit of filming, talking, and surfing with them.  I am mostly just soaking it all in and learning from Rainos and Kahea.  These two have been working for many years with kids. Rainos was one of my coaches and kahea is a very well respected professional surfer with lots of experience and passion for the sport.  Heck both of them have lots of experience and both of them can get tubed better than you on any given day!

These kids are real good though.  Some of the best young kids I have ever seen.  So polished and mature in their surfing.  And their all very respectful as well.  I was brought along to give a feminine touch to the girls side of things. Our team consists of Alessa Quizon, Malia Manuel,  Leila Hurst, and Nage Melamed.  I think each one of these girls has the potential to win this event.

The first day here we surfed a little left point , kind of like a big kewalos to me.  but wow, its hard to get waves with 250 frothing groms out.  So I moved down the beach to where the other podium is and caught a few.  There is quite a bit of swell so all the kids and parents are stoked.  This should be a good event.

Today was the parade of nations.  We got all dressed up in mumus and haku leis while the boys wore khaki and kukui nut leis.  Everyone represented Hawaii so well.  I guess that’s why everyone is here, to make Hawaii look good.  We walked about 2 miles down the beach front with local Ecuadorians taking pictures and throwing out shakas every twenty feet.  It was pretty cool! The town got super into it.  well tomorrow starts the first day of competition, better get some shut eye.  And hope we smash some other keikis on our journey to winning.

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After Steph won the comp we had a whole lotta fun down at the contest competition site.  There were free Coronas to go round, one of the best rights in the world in the background and celebration to be had!  It was pretty great to have beers with 3 champs like Lisa , Wendy, and Steph.  And what not a better day than Lisa’s birthday!  So we were all cheersing her and Steph.  I would also just like to note that the girls are looking so fit and even the soberest and most focused of them all, Jackie Silva came down and celebrated! Haha.  That was a sight.  I was trying to teach Billabong team manager how to drink a cold corona but she wasn’t having it, sad excuse for an aussie I say. Just joking,  it was cool to get to know some of the different people involved in the surfing industry.  The different people behind the scenes you don’t see.  Like the team managers, the photographers, the coaches, the significant others.  It is a chance when everyone has their hair down and likes to mingle.  It was nice to catch up with Chelsea as well.  She managed to get a baby sitter for the evening and we got to catch up and have a nice view of the sunset.  She seems focused and I hope she does well this year.

It is so weird competing just a little because I don’t have the same expectations on myself as the other girls.  I don’t have to chase points.  I can sit back when its all done, watch the whole thing go down.  i guess when you don’t have certain expectations on yourself it is so different looking at the big picture.  Leaving Australia I just reflected back on the people I hung out with and met and the waves I got.  I didn’t think about what I didn’t do but rather what I gained out of this trip.  And I gained a sense of respect for these women and what their doing.  Some of them sponsorless, some of them with their whole lives in front of them, and some of them ten years deep with that small curiosity of what their gonna do next.  It is a changing of the guard, it is a changing of a sport that when I entered went through the same thing.  I was excited to come home.  I was ready to get away from the noise of the contest scene and to the mellows of my happy place.  I was leaving a cyclone only to find out it was just as bad at home.  Who cares , the only thing I like to do is sit on my couch and read the news paper. Quiet simplicity alone.

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A few of the girls decided to join in the trek: Lee Anne Curren, Rosie Hodge, Amee Donohoe and Nikita Robb. Lucky for me I was jus a passenger cuz Amee’s Donohoes dad drove the whole way so I just checked out the rolling hills.

The Byron Bay markets were bustling with people, music, food, and plenty of patchouli in the air. My first stop was the Mexican burrito truck. I have been away from home for about 10 days now and just had to stop for a brekki burrito. I have to say it was the best egg burrito outside of California I have ever tasted. It was just weird when the guy handed it to me in an aussie accent and said, “g’day mate” haha. I wandered the aisles and saw so many cool things I would have bought if not for the 10 hour plane ride home and customs. But I managed to buy a couple of cool aussie products. Freshly made Byron Bay lemongrass soaps and a cool home made handbag. Markets are tough for me cuz I don’t know how to barter, and I don’t really like shopping. At least when I go to a mall there is air con. But these markets were different because when I got bored I would just wander over to the nearest musical act and listen to African drumming, patridge family like band, or didgeridoo player. I almost bought a drum set but opted not to . I don’t think lisa would have liked the loud banging. Haha.

After the markets we ventured into the main street. The only destination I had in mind was the Top Pub . I love to people watch and have a cold ozzie beer. This pub is infamous around these parts of Australia. People come straight in from the surf boardies still wet, sand on the feet, and salt in the hair and say ” can I have a schooner of new please” . there are no signs that say shoes required. There are people everywhere at all times of the day. We sat on a little corner table and just soaked it all in. Sundays in Australia are days to drink and me merry. In America it’s a day of rest cause all we can think of is work the next day. But ozzies are like nah this is our day of rest. Everyone is out having lunch and drinks and kind of dressed up. You especially see large groups of girls chatting away. After some good people watching and a beer we headed back to the goldie for a rest. There have been rumours floating that we may surf tomorrow so I wanted to be rested up and ready to go. Good night from down unda.

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My first week here I have spent hanging with Paige Hareb, world tour rookie from new Zealand and some of her kiwi mates. They are funny and half the time I don’t understand a word their saying. All good, I just nod and say yes. Haha. One day Jessie Miley-dyer came up and threw their little kiwi bird into the fan and they politely opened the door to escort her out. I think that the aussies and kiwis have a bit of a rivalry. Then I spent a couple days hanging with veteran surfer on the world tour , Amee Donohoe. She seems real focused and ready to challenge this new crop of women surfers and super relaxed just having spent a couple months at home.

The weather has been amazing and warm , the water looks like a swimming pool and if you really keen you can get 5 surfs in a day. Haha, that’s if you’re a total grommet. I went for three surfs before 2 today and I am about ready to keel over. The only bad thing about this warm water and hot weather , I think it attracts sea lice and they are horrible little creatures. They sting you all over and itch, itch, itch. They distract me from these perfect little snapper peaks and the other day I even had to go in cause my neck got so bit up. The sun has been absolutely scorching and several layers of sunscreen and a bottle of zinc have gone since I have been in oz. if you make a good sunscreen you would get rich in oz, cause everybody wears tons of it here. Its crazy cause aussies are so fair skinned and because we pollute the air so much up in the northern hemisphere they have to deal with the huge whole over the ozone layer and they get the most fried. Poor little fair skinned ozzies man, I feel for them. im such a morning person so its great here. Lisa Andersen is my room mate and she is the biggest coffee frother/ early bird I know. Only person in the world I know that wakes up earlier than me. I wake up and she has the fresh brew going, I make the eggs and we hit the waves. I haven’t stayed with Lisa since 2000. We were reminiscing about how time flies and she was tripping on the fact that she hasn’t been to oz in 4 years. Its kind of crazy going anywhere with Lisa cause she is such an icon in womens surfing. She just turns heads and has that kind of charisma that people just love. I have been filling her in on all the new talent and how things have changed. It has been great though to be able to catch up with Lisa and see how passionate she is about surfing and to be able to pick her brain and just hear her point of view on so many issues and so many things because she literally helped if not whole heartedly changed the way every woman from my generation and beyond sees womens surfing. We all owe such a great deal to her . but because she is so humble she makes you want to walk up to her and just have a beer with her. She doesn’t ask for any praise or any gratitude she just wants to check it all out and see how things have changed and just smile and ride her little 5’4” pod. It makes me happy to know that is what life can be like after the jersey and to remember at the end of the day she is just a surfer, were all surfers and that is what we love.

Last night we all got dolled up for the Asp Awards Banquet. It is always so fun to dress up and put loads of jewelry and make up on. It is an excuse to not look like a surfer chik and try to look like a Hollywood actress or something. They even have this funny little blue carpet thing. Lisa and I had a couple glasses of champagne then headed over to Bec Woods place and got ready with the rest of the girls. Everyone looked to great and fancy. We polished off some good bottles of champagne in the limo ride there and stepped out of the limo ready for action. It was good to pay respects to all the champions. I was super glad to watch my friend Bonga Perkins win the world longboard title, I grew up with him and I am so proud of him. It was cool that in his speech he mentioned age and how getting older is sometimes better, ha that made me smile. It was my 15th banquet and they all start blending in so I try to remember little things. I liked Dane Reynolds simple funny speech, I thought Sally spoke very poised for such a young woman and Bugs always gives the great Bugs speeches. Haha. All in all it was a good night, lights out early as the comp starts the day after tomorrow.

Well its looking like minimal swell for snapper the next couple of days so rumour has it the amazing bank at dbah could welcome us. Well im off to watch another amazing sunset. See ya tomoz! Every day im in this country my ozzie slang comes further and further into.

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Stephanie Gilmore, need I say more. World Champion, blues specialty guitarist, ear to ear smiles, and maybe the best female to ever stand on a surfboard. Yes it was a treat to watch her on every wave she caught. You can learn so much by watching steph for a few hours which I got to do because I was sick for the first week of the boat trip. I started off with super bad shoulder tendonitis and couldn’t even lift my arm to drink a cup of coffee. But it was ok , I was in good spirits and just went swimming and videod the girls for days. So at least I have a fun collection of footage. How bummed can you get, in indo? Then I got a mysterious flu and was out for a few more days. But the chef was making the best ginger, lemon , honey teas for myself, jeff, and sonny our filmers. We were all down for the count. Then there is Lyndsay Noyes who rode weird boards all the time. Despite the fact that she is extremely talented on a modern day short board she rode this thing called an Alea . so weird. Its what the Hawaiians used when surfing was first introduced. It’s about half an inch thick and 5 foot long. A wood plank with no wax was her choice of equipment. Pretty amazing stuff, oh and she plays a mean guitar as well. Last but not least there is Kassia Meador, female surfing icon. The toes on the nose queen and one of the main facesof Roxy for the past 10 years. She was the only other girl besides myself that doesn’t play guitar, so I didn’t feel that out of place. But she is very artistic and was always drawing on her board or taking photos. She was on iphoto when she wasn’t surfing. She also had the biggest laugh on the boat. All around really good mellow crew.

This year I took it upon myself to invest in a really good camera and video camera so I can look back on my amazing life and never forget the beautiful people and places surfing has allowed me to share. At 30 I guess you realize that it won’t last forever so If there is anything you can do to make memories last then I will preserve those memories. Our trip was hosted by the Indies Trader 2 and captained by Albert , um forgot his last name. haha. But he is a coffee connoisseur and gave us lessons on coffe every afternoon at 3. He is one of the very first Mentawai captains and has been working in Indo for a long time, his main goal was to always get us waves without too many people, which we succeeded quite often in doing so.

We surfed so many different types of waves and used various types of equipment. I brought a red finless board with me to Indo and it was super hard to surf. I was a bit cocky and thought that I would own the thing. Well it owned me and I looked like a crab doing five 360s a wave. Lynz who at times looked just as funny as me couldn’t stop laughing.

One morning we were surfing this little beach break and the captain wasn’t paying attention and thought we would do a floater over this wave with 6 of us in a tin boat, we went over with the lip. Sonny, jeff, serena and I all bailed out but Lynz stayed in and we thought she was done for and somehow Albert pulled through and she only had a few bruises. Even though I laugh it was one of the scariest boat incidents I had ever been in.

I learned about coffee that is pooped out by monkeys and actually tastes like the best coffee in the world. People pay big money to drink this stuff they call coffee Luac. It wasn’t your typical boat trip.

We surfed some pretty fun waves that allowed us to all try and catch up with Sally in the air department. But not really. She was doing 2 airs a wave, and I was doing crab airs. Haha. Never too late to try I guess. I think what helped sally was she had so much energy from eating 2 plates full of food a meal so she had to burn it off somehow. There wasn’t much fish in Indonesia this time, but lucky for my I caught a hungry little sucker. Cook made a delicious meal out of it. Our cook was pretty insane and had been Madonna’s personal chef before so we all thought he was pretty much the coolest guy ever, plus he had the best Kiwi accent.

One night I decided to have a few BingTang beers and do a solo Inxs act and the groms had never witnessed this before. I grabbed Lee Anns guitar and played suicide blonde air guitar and they secretly filmed it. So when I’m old I can watch myself make an arse of myself. Hee hee .

We watched movies and jammed music when we weren’t surfing. We got quite a few waves to ourselves but here and there would be other boats and we would have to share waves. One day we ran into a cool boat full of Japanese surfers which was funny. Kassia does this really good Japanese impression so she decided to utilize it and speak to them with her funny accent. It was hilarious. Every afternoon we would sit around in the lineup or the tin boat and talk crap and have a beer and just laugh at each otherI faced my fears and jumped off the top of the boat. I was so scared but glad I did it in the end. All the girls were yelling from lances rights calling me a wuss if I didn’t do it. So I had to.

Poor Serena had to share a room with me and my bag somehow caught the same virus as me and vomited all over the room. Haha. She is such a clean person too, it must have pissed her off. My bag exploded everywhere. I get so ADD that I go for a surf and go to change but want to rush upstairs so fast that I just tear my bag apart. We watched a couple of super bad movies as well. One of the movies we had to hid Sallys eyes from it.

On the last two days of the trip we ran into another boat load of female surfers on the start of their trip. It was a pretty amazing thing. In all of the years I had been going to the Mentawais since 1997 there has always been like the token female boat trip. Well it shows how times have changed because it was the first time there has ever been two female trips in the mentawais at the same time. It was a sight to see, 15 girls taking over perfect lances right. That last day was epic and we got to share it with a bunch of our other friends. We got barreled almost every wave and couldn’t stop smiling. We were trying to scheme a way to stay out another week. It was funny. But in the end, I got barreled on my last wave did I sick turn, kicked out and ended up a foot from the tin boat. They threw me a beer and I watched Steph get shacked, the sunset beautifully over the land behind us, and I just smiled cause it was the funnest trip I had ever had to indo. The waves weren’t perfect the whole time, just fun. But the vibe was good. The vibe. So now when I go back to Indo or go on another surf trip I will never forget its not the waves that make a trip , it’s the good times and good vibes.

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Welcome to my new web site. You can check out what I’m up to these days with a brand new photo gallery, my bio, a blog where I’ll keep you up to date with my latest surfing adventures, news, info about the great companies that sponsor me, links to some of my favorite web sites, and a lot more.

Stay tuned, there is much more to come. We’re still making some changes around here so please be patient as we get everything in place.

To all of my fans that have supported me throughout the years, thank you so much. Aloha!

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