Megan Abubo’s Journal

Sometimes one door closes and another one opens in this life. I spent a week at the chaotic Us Open of surfing and quickly caught a plane back home. During my stay in California a big door in my life unexpectedly shut on me and I thought at the time it was the end of the world. Lucky for me as soon as I stepped off the plane from California, the small smell of plumeria, and sense of security overwhelmed my mind and body.

My first night home I got a phone call from Crystal Thornburg and her boyfriend Dave Homcy. They wanted to know if I wanted to go on an outer island adventure in Aunty Rell Sunns canoe. What an honor I thought to myself and couldn’t think of a better door to open in front of me than the one of my hero, my idol, the Queen of Makaha and the woman who inspired me more than anyone to become a pro surfer.

Crystal and Dave are a happy little couple in my little hometown of Sunset and always have smiles on their faces, boards or swim fins in their hands, and grow a mean garden in their backyard. They eat their own food, drive a biodiesel car, and both have amazing talents in and out of the water. They are role model citizens in my book. Dave is a cinematographer and has been involved with some of my favorite films in surfing such as shelter and sliding Liberia. He has an exceptional eye for his subject and knows how to touch the heart of the viewer and you can really relate and want to go for a surf after you watch his film skills. Crystal Thornburg is a born n bred local girl whom lives the ultimate water lifestyle. She is an accomplished canoe paddler, longboarder, and swimmer. Crystal has a classic longboard style and I am always pleased to watch her surf. She rides for Patagonia and gets to go on cool expeditions and adventures with Dave and her sponsor. I thought she was very courageous going to Liberia with that film crew and hats were off to her. I love her passion for the ocean and for her history of Hawaii and her sense of being a true water woman. She really wants to keep the spirit of Rell alive and I was super honored to be a part of the trip

Before I went on the trip I stopped at one of my besties houses, Jen Homcy which is daves sisters house and the adventure traveler she is loaded me up with the best camping gear a girl could ask for. I had a one man tent, air mattress, junior park ranger coffee mug, waterproof bags, and of course mosquito netting up the butt. I am not a camper. I have not camped in the last 10 years and jen knew this. So she hooked a sister up with some good gear and I felt confident that I wouldn’t get wet, have a sore back, and not get bit by mozzies. It was on, I was going adventuring with a few people whom I didn’t know super super well and were very talented any many aspects of the wonderful ocean I spent every day of my life in.

I checked in 2 waterproof backpacks and some swim fins. This was different for me. No board charges and no duffle bag. I packed very minimally for me and I was curious to see if I would be able to handle wearing the same thing over and over. I kind of have this thing about wearing ultra clean clothes. I was up for the challenge. Ready for an adventure. We landed outer island of Oahu and met one of our guides, uncle Glenn. An amazing Hawaiian man with so many stories to tell. He grew up in Waianae with auntie Rell and he has some stuff to say about her. It was awesome when I first landed to hear all these stories about her. He had a huge mango tree at his house and we picked tons of mangoes for our journey in the canoe. We stopped at the local market and loaded up on some food, then stopped at a friend’s house to grab our veggies. This was awesome to me. We got organic, local veggies and fruit. No hormones, no pesticides and grown from loving hands. Oh how my body was longing for this. And my soul.

We drove to the end of the island; I switched my phone off and was ready to be in the moment. The very moment I was living. No facebook, no skype, no news, no texting, I will be in the moment for a week and this was my vacation. I owed this to myself. I will embark on a journey I have never before been a part of and be with people who are out of my comfort zone.

Four years ago I said I didn’t want to go back to Africa because it had gotten pretty dangerous and I was a bit scared and it was just so far to go for a small beach break wave and not totally worth it to me. Then I became good friends with local Ballito surfer tammy smith and my whole perception changed. She convinced me to go and see another part of Durban area and her parents had a cool surf camp called the “ Secret Spot” which I would love. So I decided to go off on an adventure and chase some points to get me to the next comp. So I packed my bags and headed off half way around the world. I had two grovel boards and one short board packed in my bag and this is usually what I used in South Africa for the beach break comp. I wish I had researched the place a little better.

I had just surfed uncrowded points in Mexico so I was a bit tired and didn’t mind the two days, 6 airplane meals, fat feet, sore back feeling I was feeling. I traveled with Alana Blanchard there and it amazed me how she slept so much without sleeping pills. Oh to be 19 again. Finally got there and slept for a day. It is the furthest you can go around the world from Hawaii, and I would like to add I think it is the driest! My lips were parched and my skin was flaking off. Crazy how different climates make your body feel different ways? One minute I feel humidified and beautiful and the next I feel dry and wrinkly.

The first day I was in South Africa it was beautiful, crisp weather with 2-3 foot sandbar waves. Pretty fun little shore breaks. Water was nice and just the air was cool. There was lots of talk about the ten-year storm coming and I didn’t believe it. Quite a few girls on tour were staying at the “ secret spot” so it was pretty fun. We would all load up in the VW bus and surf and do grocery shops. It was a hostile type kitchen setting for breakfast but Roz Tammy’s mom and her staff would cook up some mean muffins and delicious dinner every night. Really yummy hearty food to put me to sleep. There was a pool table to occupy us when we were bored. And of course there was wireless Internet and the mass facebook sessions every day. The property was a beautiful little retreat with amazing plants, and surf camp feel. You could see the ocean from the front of the property and watch the sunrise if you were up that early

Well the ten-year storm finally came and I was in disbelief. It looked like sunset beach across the street!!! Fifteen-foot sets and it was the first day of the waiting period. What was I going to do? I had a choice between a 5’9” a 5’9” and hey wait another 5’8” . Ha-ha. I was crapping my pants! Lucky for me it was canceled. I guess I wouldn’t have minded surfing if the wave was rideable but apparently it wasn’t. The following day wasn’t much better but we had to run because unfortunately for us someone allowed a 2 day waiting period for a 2 day running event. Not so bright. These are things that happen I guess. We started the event at 7 a.m. and were told there was a front coming in at 1pm. A BIG front. The girls in the morning were blessed with trestles like rights and super fun looking sections. It showed too, the scores being dropped down were high and everyone was getting super pumped. It was pretty decent size on the sets. Girls like Nicola Atherton, Ornella Pelizzari, Bethany Hamilton, Leilani Gryde, and Alana Blanchard, Sarah Beardmore were all killing it because the surf was solid and they were amped to get something good for a WQS event. I was pumped watching and filming the heats. I drank lots of coffee that morning so I knew I had to battle against the heat amp and the caffeine! But all good, I was heat 9 and I was psyched. Until just before my heat the 50-knot winds started kicking in and I was finding it hard to change into my wetsuit. My little Epoxy board was barely staying under my arm while I was walking down to the rocks for my paddle out. I was also given 20 minutes to get out there. Ok, attempt 1 was unsuccessful. After paddling for ten minutes and getting swept and windblown hundreds of years down the beach I gave up. Got out and ran up the beach and tried again. Once again attempt 2, unsuccessful. 3rd times a charm I guess, finally made it out the back 9 minutes into my heat!!!!! Are you kidding me? Wow. Caught a small wave and scored a 4.5. Washed in again and tried to paddle back out for the fourth time and it was unsuccessful, so I stood up in the white water and scored a .3. Buzzer goes and my heat is done. That was the hardest heat I had ever surfed. I can’t believe it but I made it. Sally got one wave in the heat, a 9 somehow. And not a second one. Third and fourth didn’t score more than 1 point each. Wow! That was crazy. They called it off after my heat and the girls and officials had a crazy meeting about what was going to happen. Because apparently at the end of the day the event was supposed to have been finished. I felt bad for everyone. Especially the girls giving it a real go on the world tour and trying to get points. There were so many mixed emotions because points, money, and time were all on the line. So many emotions especially with a bunch of women were involved. I kind of stood back as the first 14 years of my career were spent with all that emotion and now im just kind of watching it all. But I gave my opinion and tried to help a bit.

In the end the next morning the remainder 3 heats surfed at pretty good chunky surfers point in Ballito. Equal 24th went to the remainder of the girls. And a basic pat on the back and thanks for coming went down. I’m sure it’s not the last the ASP is going to hear from some of the girls. It was a bit of poor judgment but I guess everyone lost out. Sponsors, girls, and Asp . So hopefully we learn from this mistake. Life is about learning I guess.

Well I guess it’s off to the flow rider at the mall and good times before heading back to Cali. Yeoww. Thanks to Tammy and her amazing family. You let me see a different side of South Africa with your gumboot dance and love for your country. What a beautiful place full of so wildlife and big surf.
http://www.vimeo.com/5438322

So now that Im home for a little while.  It gives me the opportunity to work with my shaper Eric Arakawa and perfect the equipment I’m riding.  Eric is a very experienced , world renowned pioneer shaper from the North Shore of Oahu.  He has been making my boards for about 12 years now.  We have a communicative relationship and he is the reason why I have been so successful in different types of waves all over the world, especially at home.  I love going into his factory and talking with his whole staff of shapers, glassers, and blank cutters.  Everyone is so funny and always in such a good mood. I mean how couldnt you with Eric as your boss.

Today I went in and discussed some boards for an upcoming trip I’m going to be doing. And we also discussed some small wave boards.  Small waves have always been my weak point so in nailing these boards down it has been key.  I also ordered a fun small wave board that will look very weird but hopefully rides well and just makes me look like a goofball.  Im going on a trip with a bunch of young rippers so i gotta stand out some how.  I usually bring boards in to him. Ill take in some i really like and one  I dont like.  It gives him something to work off that way.  He takes constructive criticism very well and has absolutely no ego. For a shaper that is key, to have no ego because it seriously ruins the communication lines.  As well as for the surfer.  Because sometimes its just me!  haha.  We mainly sit at the computer and he shows me stuff that he thinks will work and I usually agree. I have learned so much working with Eric about bottom contour, rails, rockers, as well as materials used in surfboards.  It has been a very rewarding relationship.  Im stoked I got the chance to talk with Eric before leaving. This summer should be exciting with new equipment under my feet.

Been home for a few days now.  It was super refreshing having some surfs with minimal crowds.  The other day I had a marathon surf day.  The sandbars were fun so I decided to catch a few and ran into kanoe Garcia, Kai Garcia’s wife.  She had just dropped the kids off at school and got a surf day.  That must be so great to have your kids old enough to where you can finally go do the things you love.  She was so stoked to be surfing the fun waves.  Coco was out as well.  mid way through the surf we both got so excited to go stand up paddle surf out at pupukea.  It was kind of solid though like 3-4 feet so I was a bit scared.  Went home loaded up and went out for a couple of hours.  It was so much fun.  We had this little peak all to ourselves.  I really suck at it but Kanoe was just jamming.  Catching lefts, rights, anything in sight.  I would have to lay down and paddle out everynow and then cause I wasn’t good enough.  But I have so much fun with it cause it is so different and hard to me.  the only thing that sucks is the rash you get from the grip.  Kanoes board didn’t have grip but mine did cause I like the way it feels but man when I lay down it really hurts!  It is also nice surfing with another woman who is so supportive even when your not good, she kept giving me positive reinforcements that I was doing good.  Haha it was a blast! Well we didn’t kill anyone, didn’t ding the board, and came in with shaky legs and sore arms.  So I guess I got my daily workout in.  but the crap thing was when we came in Kanoes car got ripped off.  It really sucks when you get stolen from in your own backyard.  What jerks I was thinking! We had the best day then it ended on the worst note.  There is a big problem out here on the north shore with theft because of the big drug problem.  Our community has tried very hard to clean it up but I guess right now there is a big problem with break ins.  I heard of quite a few people getting ripped off.  So watch your cars people!  Well  I felt so bad for her.  Hopefully they catch whoever did it.  if not I believe in karma, what goes around comes around.  Sometimes you have to sacrifice for a good day of waves.  I guess she did that.  And in the end hopefully she remembers the good surf and not the thieving.

This week Im in Ecuador for the  ISA  Quiksilver world junior championships.  I ended up here because two months ago, Rainos Hayes asked me if I would like to coach the girls side of the Hawaii junior team and help with the ladies side of things.  Kahea Hart and Himself run the boys side.  Since my year is pretty freed up and I wanted to do some different things, this seemed like the perfect opportunity to give back to this sport that has given me so much.  I was pretty amped to be a part of such a special event.  Before I left for Australia back in February I did a couple of training sessions with the girls and was pretty amped to work with them.

This event is being held in Salinas Ecuador.  To get here was a mission!! Especially with 12 teenagers , 3 coaches, a few sets of parents and long time supporters of amateur surfing.  I’m not used to checking in with so many people, not have my special seat, and being entertained the whole time I travel basically.  It was very different but a good experience for me.  so 3 5 hour plane rides later, mechanical difficulties, and a few layovers we were finally in Ecuador. (more…)

So the Roxy Pro Gold Coast came to an end.  Steph Gilmore and Melanie Bartels started off right where they left off.  Steph surfed her homebreak of snapper rocks finally and defeated the amazing Hawaiian.  Mel Bartels is a good friend of mine and it is so good to see her get the financial, emotional, and mental support that she has needed for a long time.  She really stepped up her game this event.  It was so cool to see the whole womens tour has gone up a couple of levels and really putting some flare and mixing it up this year.  The top 18 on the Asp Woimens World Tour are all capable of winning a world title and their all looking at the top of their game. (more…)

On the first lay day of the Roxy Pro I went down to Byron Bay for the Sunday markets. I don’t particularly like markets but a lil Byron Bay on a Sunday mixed with the markets sounded very interesting to me so decided to give it a go and head an hour south of the goldie.

A few of the girls decided to join in the trek: Lee Anne Curren, Rosie Hodge, Amee Donohoe and Nikita Robb. Lucky for me I was jus a passenger cuz Amee’s Donohoes dad drove the whole way so I just checked out the rolling hills. (more…)