Megan Abubo’s Journal

Four years ago I said I didn’t want to go back to Africa because it had gotten pretty dangerous and I was a bit scared and it was just so far to go for a small beach break wave and not totally worth it to me. Then I became good friends with local Ballito surfer tammy smith and my whole perception changed. She convinced me to go and see another part of Durban area and her parents had a cool surf camp called the “ Secret Spot” which I would love. So I decided to go off on an adventure and chase some points to get me to the next comp. So I packed my bags and headed off half way around the world. I had two grovel boards and one short board packed in my bag and this is usually what I used in South Africa for the beach break comp. I wish I had researched the place a little better.

I had just surfed uncrowded points in Mexico so I was a bit tired and didn’t mind the two days, 6 airplane meals, fat feet, sore back feeling I was feeling. I traveled with Alana Blanchard there and it amazed me how she slept so much without sleeping pills. Oh to be 19 again. Finally got there and slept for a day. It is the furthest you can go around the world from Hawaii, and I would like to add I think it is the driest! My lips were parched and my skin was flaking off. Crazy how different climates make your body feel different ways? One minute I feel humidified and beautiful and the next I feel dry and wrinkly.

The first day I was in South Africa it was beautiful, crisp weather with 2-3 foot sandbar waves. Pretty fun little shore breaks. Water was nice and just the air was cool. There was lots of talk about the ten-year storm coming and I didn’t believe it. Quite a few girls on tour were staying at the “ secret spot” so it was pretty fun. We would all load up in the VW bus and surf and do grocery shops. It was a hostile type kitchen setting for breakfast but Roz Tammy’s mom and her staff would cook up some mean muffins and delicious dinner every night. Really yummy hearty food to put me to sleep. There was a pool table to occupy us when we were bored. And of course there was wireless Internet and the mass facebook sessions every day. The property was a beautiful little retreat with amazing plants, and surf camp feel. You could see the ocean from the front of the property and watch the sunrise if you were up that early

Well the ten-year storm finally came and I was in disbelief. It looked like sunset beach across the street!!! Fifteen-foot sets and it was the first day of the waiting period. What was I going to do? I had a choice between a 5’9” a 5’9” and hey wait another 5’8” . Ha-ha. I was crapping my pants! Lucky for me it was canceled. I guess I wouldn’t have minded surfing if the wave was rideable but apparently it wasn’t. The following day wasn’t much better but we had to run because unfortunately for us someone allowed a 2 day waiting period for a 2 day running event. Not so bright. These are things that happen I guess. We started the event at 7 a.m. and were told there was a front coming in at 1pm. A BIG front. The girls in the morning were blessed with trestles like rights and super fun looking sections. It showed too, the scores being dropped down were high and everyone was getting super pumped. It was pretty decent size on the sets. Girls like Nicola Atherton, Ornella Pelizzari, Bethany Hamilton, Leilani Gryde, and Alana Blanchard, Sarah Beardmore were all killing it because the surf was solid and they were amped to get something good for a WQS event. I was pumped watching and filming the heats. I drank lots of coffee that morning so I knew I had to battle against the heat amp and the caffeine! But all good, I was heat 9 and I was psyched. Until just before my heat the 50-knot winds started kicking in and I was finding it hard to change into my wetsuit. My little Epoxy board was barely staying under my arm while I was walking down to the rocks for my paddle out. I was also given 20 minutes to get out there. Ok, attempt 1 was unsuccessful. After paddling for ten minutes and getting swept and windblown hundreds of years down the beach I gave up. Got out and ran up the beach and tried again. Once again attempt 2, unsuccessful. 3rd times a charm I guess, finally made it out the back 9 minutes into my heat!!!!! Are you kidding me? Wow. Caught a small wave and scored a 4.5. Washed in again and tried to paddle back out for the fourth time and it was unsuccessful, so I stood up in the white water and scored a .3. Buzzer goes and my heat is done. That was the hardest heat I had ever surfed. I can’t believe it but I made it. Sally got one wave in the heat, a 9 somehow. And not a second one. Third and fourth didn’t score more than 1 point each. Wow! That was crazy. They called it off after my heat and the girls and officials had a crazy meeting about what was going to happen. Because apparently at the end of the day the event was supposed to have been finished. I felt bad for everyone. Especially the girls giving it a real go on the world tour and trying to get points. There were so many mixed emotions because points, money, and time were all on the line. So many emotions especially with a bunch of women were involved. I kind of stood back as the first 14 years of my career were spent with all that emotion and now im just kind of watching it all. But I gave my opinion and tried to help a bit.

In the end the next morning the remainder 3 heats surfed at pretty good chunky surfers point in Ballito. Equal 24th went to the remainder of the girls. And a basic pat on the back and thanks for coming went down. I’m sure it’s not the last the ASP is going to hear from some of the girls. It was a bit of poor judgment but I guess everyone lost out. Sponsors, girls, and Asp . So hopefully we learn from this mistake. Life is about learning I guess.

Well I guess it’s off to the flow rider at the mall and good times before heading back to Cali. Yeoww. Thanks to Tammy and her amazing family. You let me see a different side of South Africa with your gumboot dance and love for your country. What a beautiful place full of so wildlife and big surf.
http://www.vimeo.com/5438322