Been home for a few days now. It was super refreshing having some surfs with minimal crowds. The other day I had a marathon surf day. The sandbars were fun so I decided to catch a few and ran into kanoe Garcia, Kai Garcia’s wife. She had just dropped the kids off at school and got a surf day. That must be so great to have your kids old enough to where you can finally go do the things you love. She was so stoked to be surfing the fun waves. Coco was out as well. mid way through the surf we both got so excited to go stand up paddle surf out at pupukea. It was kind of solid though like 3-4 feet so I was a bit scared. Went home loaded up and went out for a couple of hours. It was so much fun. We had this little peak all to ourselves. I really suck at it but Kanoe was just jamming. Catching lefts, rights, anything in sight. I would have to lay down and paddle out everynow and then cause I wasn’t good enough. But I have so much fun with it cause it is so different and hard to me. the only thing that sucks is the rash you get from the grip. Kanoes board didn’t have grip but mine did cause I like the way it feels but man when I lay down it really hurts! It is also nice surfing with another woman who is so supportive even when your not good, she kept giving me positive reinforcements that I was doing good. Haha it was a blast! Well we didn’t kill anyone, didn’t ding the board, and came in with shaky legs and sore arms. So I guess I got my daily workout in. but the crap thing was when we came in Kanoes car got ripped off. It really sucks when you get stolen from in your own backyard. What jerks I was thinking! We had the best day then it ended on the worst note. There is a big problem out here on the north shore with theft because of the big drug problem. Our community has tried very hard to clean it up but I guess right now there is a big problem with break ins. I heard of quite a few people getting ripped off. So watch your cars people! Well I felt so bad for her. Hopefully they catch whoever did it. if not I believe in karma, what goes around comes around. Sometimes you have to sacrifice for a good day of waves. I guess she did that. And in the end hopefully she remembers the good surf and not the thieving.
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