Megan Abubo’s Journal

Been home for a few days now.  It was super refreshing having some surfs with minimal crowds.  The other day I had a marathon surf day.  The sandbars were fun so I decided to catch a few and ran into kanoe Garcia, Kai Garcia’s wife.  She had just dropped the kids off at school and got a surf day.  That must be so great to have your kids old enough to where you can finally go do the things you love.  She was so stoked to be surfing the fun waves.  Coco was out as well.  mid way through the surf we both got so excited to go stand up paddle surf out at pupukea.  It was kind of solid though like 3-4 feet so I was a bit scared.  Went home loaded up and went out for a couple of hours.  It was so much fun.  We had this little peak all to ourselves.  I really suck at it but Kanoe was just jamming.  Catching lefts, rights, anything in sight.  I would have to lay down and paddle out everynow and then cause I wasn’t good enough.  But I have so much fun with it cause it is so different and hard to me.  the only thing that sucks is the rash you get from the grip.  Kanoes board didn’t have grip but mine did cause I like the way it feels but man when I lay down it really hurts!  It is also nice surfing with another woman who is so supportive even when your not good, she kept giving me positive reinforcements that I was doing good.  Haha it was a blast! Well we didn’t kill anyone, didn’t ding the board, and came in with shaky legs and sore arms.  So I guess I got my daily workout in.  but the crap thing was when we came in Kanoes car got ripped off.  It really sucks when you get stolen from in your own backyard.  What jerks I was thinking! We had the best day then it ended on the worst note.  There is a big problem out here on the north shore with theft because of the big drug problem.  Our community has tried very hard to clean it up but I guess right now there is a big problem with break ins.  I heard of quite a few people getting ripped off.  So watch your cars people!  Well  I felt so bad for her.  Hopefully they catch whoever did it.  if not I believe in karma, what goes around comes around.  Sometimes you have to sacrifice for a good day of waves.  I guess she did that.  And in the end hopefully she remembers the good surf and not the thieving.

i got one restless nights rest in and got word the next morning that the Tidal 9 womens pipe pro  benefitiing the girl scouts  4 star event was a go.  Man was i jet lagged.  I had a big cup of coffee and peeled my eyes open to walk up to thumping 4-6 foot pipe.  I rarely surf pipe but thought this was a great opportunity to get it with no one out.  To my surprise it was freezing down on the beach and apparently the water was even colder.  there were girls running up and down the beach from surfs in short arm full suits and long arm springs.  This kind of freaked me out as i was kind of not prepared.  but sometimes if your not used to the chilly hawaiian winds in spring then you have to opt for a wettie.  i decided to charge it witha  bikini and got a freezing fright when i first jumped in. it was so weird surfing a heat as  my head was still up in the couds at 35,000 feet and on my first wave you could tell as i did the splits straight after standing up.  now i remember why i usually get myself to events a few days earlier.  it was really tricky and there were weird bumps, lumps, and chop in the waves.  but you could find a few good ones if you just searched like a lion.  tons of girls were hurling themselves over the ledge and absolutely charging.  i kinda played the safe route that morning as i was so out of it and somehow managed to squeak out a couple of late drops and some good rides to make it out of the heat.  i sat on the beach for a while watching after. it was amazing to see all these girls charging solid pipe.  every one gave it a good go.  honorary wipeout mention on this particular day would have to go to none other than Keala Kennelley though.  She was on a bigger board and able to chuck herself over these crazy ledges.  sometimes making it and sometimes not.  the craziest one she got was this 6 foot heaving backdoor barrel that she just couldnt get into in time and went head first over.  all you could hear were groans from the beach.  but she loves this stuff and thoroughly enjoys all that comes with it, wipeoouts and all.  i guess its “no guts , no glory”  attitude that will make a pipe champ.  Rochelle Ballard got some late drops at backdoor and pulled most of them.  other girls that really impressed me were Ornella Perizalli and Claire Bevilacqua.  both of these girls spent quite a bit of time out there this winter so it was good to see them charge it.

The next day we walked up and the swell had deteriorated but there were still a few good ones to be surfed.  it was supposed to get smaller so they quickly started at 8 with the longboard division.  okay now these girls are crazy! their charging these shallow, steep ledges with 9 foot of foam in front of them.  all that comes to mind is OMG!  i couldnt even imagine making one of the drops let alone get barreled and charge backdoor  on a longboard.  but the girls were going off and it was insane to watch.  i knew quite a few of the girls in the competition from the years of being involved with longboarding because of Roxy’s huge involvement and support of womens longboarding.  one of my best friends from my teen years and someone i started the tour with Cori Schumacher was in town as well and it was good to catch up with her and also see her skills and how much they have improved.  She ended up winning the event and surfed some solid backdoor barrels against the field to come out on top int he finals.  the field was pretty stacked for the girls and they had to surf like 4 times .

my quarter final heat had a few waves and i managed to get through with Bevo but then in my semis is was pretty wave starved and i only did one turn .  so i had to sit it out and watch the finals.  Bevo took control over the groms in the heat from the get go.  and when i say groms i mean it, Carissa Moore, Laura Enever, and Anastasia Ashley.  She got every set, every barrel, and just surfed with pure determination and aggressiveness throughout the whole heat.  the other girls were pretty quiet until the last five minutes when Carissa Moore started her attack. She pulled into a big backdoor barrel but barely squeaked out to get smashed, then ripped a right to shreds.  i guess int he end it wasnt enough and Bevo came out on top.

i guess all in a days work for the girls and i think the event was successful.  its still pretty grass roots but it is a step and hopefully next year we can get some good waves again.  Thanks Betty Depolito for putting on a great event and allowing the women to showcase their skills at pipe.

This week Im in Ecuador for the  ISA  Quiksilver world junior championships.  I ended up here because two months ago, Rainos Hayes asked me if I would like to coach the girls side of the Hawaii junior team and help with the ladies side of things.  Kahea Hart and Himself run the boys side.  Since my year is pretty freed up and I wanted to do some different things, this seemed like the perfect opportunity to give back to this sport that has given me so much.  I was pretty amped to be a part of such a special event.  Before I left for Australia back in February I did a couple of training sessions with the girls and was pretty amped to work with them.

This event is being held in Salinas Ecuador.  To get here was a mission!! Especially with 12 teenagers , 3 coaches, a few sets of parents and long time supporters of amateur surfing.  I’m not used to checking in with so many people, not have my special seat, and being entertained the whole time I travel basically.  It was very different but a good experience for me.  so 3 5 hour plane rides later, mechanical difficulties, and a few layovers we were finally in Ecuador. (more…)

So the Roxy Pro Gold Coast came to an end.  Steph Gilmore and Melanie Bartels started off right where they left off.  Steph surfed her homebreak of snapper rocks finally and defeated the amazing Hawaiian.  Mel Bartels is a good friend of mine and it is so good to see her get the financial, emotional, and mental support that she has needed for a long time.  She really stepped up her game this event.  It was so cool to see the whole womens tour has gone up a couple of levels and really putting some flare and mixing it up this year.  The top 18 on the Asp Woimens World Tour are all capable of winning a world title and their all looking at the top of their game. (more…)