Megan Abubo’s Journal

So now that Im home for a little while.  It gives me the opportunity to work with my shaper Eric Arakawa and perfect the equipment I’m riding.  Eric is a very experienced , world renowned pioneer shaper from the North Shore of Oahu.  He has been making my boards for about 12 years now.  We have a communicative relationship and he is the reason why I have been so successful in different types of waves all over the world, especially at home.  I love going into his factory and talking with his whole staff of shapers, glassers, and blank cutters.  Everyone is so funny and always in such a good mood. I mean how couldnt you with Eric as your boss.

Today I went in and discussed some boards for an upcoming trip I’m going to be doing. And we also discussed some small wave boards.  Small waves have always been my weak point so in nailing these boards down it has been key.  I also ordered a fun small wave board that will look very weird but hopefully rides well and just makes me look like a goofball.  Im going on a trip with a bunch of young rippers so i gotta stand out some how.  I usually bring boards in to him. Ill take in some i really like and one  I dont like.  It gives him something to work off that way.  He takes constructive criticism very well and has absolutely no ego. For a shaper that is key, to have no ego because it seriously ruins the communication lines.  As well as for the surfer.  Because sometimes its just me!  haha.  We mainly sit at the computer and he shows me stuff that he thinks will work and I usually agree. I have learned so much working with Eric about bottom contour, rails, rockers, as well as materials used in surfboards.  It has been a very rewarding relationship.  Im stoked I got the chance to talk with Eric before leaving. This summer should be exciting with new equipment under my feet.

After two days of travel Coco Ho and I arrived in Lisbon airport.  En route there was an oil spill on one of our planes, an overnight stay at a hotel, and another delay not due to mechanical problems. Oh and don’t forget the threat of this whole new swine thing.  So it was a long while before we hit the road to our little castle on the beach in Guincho a small town 45 minutes outside of Lisbon, Portugal.

Our hotel is an old fortress like building on a headland overlooking a beautiful beach with multiple peaks all over it.  We went out for  a late surf to wash the travel away. So Portugal is the coldest surf I have felt since England in April.  As soon as my toe touched the water I immediately went numb.  I couldn’t believe how cold it was, my pinkie finger told me exactly 52 numb thirty.  Yikes!!!!!! Are you kidding me, I just surfed my last session at home in a bikini.  I haven’t worn a wetsuit since I was in Manly, Australia back in October.  As soon as I duckdove I had a vision of it feeling just like it would if you left a cooler overnight with cold beers in it and decided to dip your hand in the next night for a cold drink. That is my brain, that is my brain frozen I kept saying.  I couldn’t believe it.  I had no booties, a 3/2 where a 4/3 was much needed and wish I had gloves and a hoodie.  Well I stood up on two waves and told grom I was going in.  She was pretty amped and stayed out for a while.  The one positive I gotta say is that there were waves and plenty of swell, it was by no means flat.  Europe tends to have plenty of swell this time of year.

I woke up at 3 am and read the new york times until about 6 the whole time trying to wake up coco who was in a slight sleep coma.  Then at 6 I finally fell asleep again to wake up extremely groggy. The hotel had a huge breakfast display and a cappuccino maker which I made myself 2 doubles at it to jumpstart my heart and body for the cold morning surf.

The surf was pumping that whole day.  I found some booties and had a 3 hour marathon surf in the afernoon. It was dead glass and absolutely beautiful.  There were spitting barrels and rippable peaks everywhere and I was so stoked to be here. I surfed with a couple other girls for hours.  And the booties made me feel so much better.  I could actually feel my board and felt comfortable in the surf.  Coco is a machine and I am so grateful she let me use her booties.  Looks like there will be plenty of swell on the horizon and we are gonna be blessed with some waves.  Cant wait.

Been home for a few days now.  It was super refreshing having some surfs with minimal crowds.  The other day I had a marathon surf day.  The sandbars were fun so I decided to catch a few and ran into kanoe Garcia, Kai Garcia’s wife.  She had just dropped the kids off at school and got a surf day.  That must be so great to have your kids old enough to where you can finally go do the things you love.  She was so stoked to be surfing the fun waves.  Coco was out as well.  mid way through the surf we both got so excited to go stand up paddle surf out at pupukea.  It was kind of solid though like 3-4 feet so I was a bit scared.  Went home loaded up and went out for a couple of hours.  It was so much fun.  We had this little peak all to ourselves.  I really suck at it but Kanoe was just jamming.  Catching lefts, rights, anything in sight.  I would have to lay down and paddle out everynow and then cause I wasn’t good enough.  But I have so much fun with it cause it is so different and hard to me.  the only thing that sucks is the rash you get from the grip.  Kanoes board didn’t have grip but mine did cause I like the way it feels but man when I lay down it really hurts!  It is also nice surfing with another woman who is so supportive even when your not good, she kept giving me positive reinforcements that I was doing good.  Haha it was a blast! Well we didn’t kill anyone, didn’t ding the board, and came in with shaky legs and sore arms.  So I guess I got my daily workout in.  but the crap thing was when we came in Kanoes car got ripped off.  It really sucks when you get stolen from in your own backyard.  What jerks I was thinking! We had the best day then it ended on the worst note.  There is a big problem out here on the north shore with theft because of the big drug problem.  Our community has tried very hard to clean it up but I guess right now there is a big problem with break ins.  I heard of quite a few people getting ripped off.  So watch your cars people!  Well  I felt so bad for her.  Hopefully they catch whoever did it.  if not I believe in karma, what goes around comes around.  Sometimes you have to sacrifice for a good day of waves.  I guess she did that.  And in the end hopefully she remembers the good surf and not the thieving.

i got one restless nights rest in and got word the next morning that the Tidal 9 womens pipe pro  benefitiing the girl scouts  4 star event was a go.  Man was i jet lagged.  I had a big cup of coffee and peeled my eyes open to walk up to thumping 4-6 foot pipe.  I rarely surf pipe but thought this was a great opportunity to get it with no one out.  To my surprise it was freezing down on the beach and apparently the water was even colder.  there were girls running up and down the beach from surfs in short arm full suits and long arm springs.  This kind of freaked me out as i was kind of not prepared.  but sometimes if your not used to the chilly hawaiian winds in spring then you have to opt for a wettie.  i decided to charge it witha  bikini and got a freezing fright when i first jumped in. it was so weird surfing a heat as  my head was still up in the couds at 35,000 feet and on my first wave you could tell as i did the splits straight after standing up.  now i remember why i usually get myself to events a few days earlier.  it was really tricky and there were weird bumps, lumps, and chop in the waves.  but you could find a few good ones if you just searched like a lion.  tons of girls were hurling themselves over the ledge and absolutely charging.  i kinda played the safe route that morning as i was so out of it and somehow managed to squeak out a couple of late drops and some good rides to make it out of the heat.  i sat on the beach for a while watching after. it was amazing to see all these girls charging solid pipe.  every one gave it a good go.  honorary wipeout mention on this particular day would have to go to none other than Keala Kennelley though.  She was on a bigger board and able to chuck herself over these crazy ledges.  sometimes making it and sometimes not.  the craziest one she got was this 6 foot heaving backdoor barrel that she just couldnt get into in time and went head first over.  all you could hear were groans from the beach.  but she loves this stuff and thoroughly enjoys all that comes with it, wipeoouts and all.  i guess its “no guts , no glory”  attitude that will make a pipe champ.  Rochelle Ballard got some late drops at backdoor and pulled most of them.  other girls that really impressed me were Ornella Perizalli and Claire Bevilacqua.  both of these girls spent quite a bit of time out there this winter so it was good to see them charge it.

The next day we walked up and the swell had deteriorated but there were still a few good ones to be surfed.  it was supposed to get smaller so they quickly started at 8 with the longboard division.  okay now these girls are crazy! their charging these shallow, steep ledges with 9 foot of foam in front of them.  all that comes to mind is OMG!  i couldnt even imagine making one of the drops let alone get barreled and charge backdoor  on a longboard.  but the girls were going off and it was insane to watch.  i knew quite a few of the girls in the competition from the years of being involved with longboarding because of Roxy’s huge involvement and support of womens longboarding.  one of my best friends from my teen years and someone i started the tour with Cori Schumacher was in town as well and it was good to catch up with her and also see her skills and how much they have improved.  She ended up winning the event and surfed some solid backdoor barrels against the field to come out on top int he finals.  the field was pretty stacked for the girls and they had to surf like 4 times .

my quarter final heat had a few waves and i managed to get through with Bevo but then in my semis is was pretty wave starved and i only did one turn .  so i had to sit it out and watch the finals.  Bevo took control over the groms in the heat from the get go.  and when i say groms i mean it, Carissa Moore, Laura Enever, and Anastasia Ashley.  She got every set, every barrel, and just surfed with pure determination and aggressiveness throughout the whole heat.  the other girls were pretty quiet until the last five minutes when Carissa Moore started her attack. She pulled into a big backdoor barrel but barely squeaked out to get smashed, then ripped a right to shreds.  i guess int he end it wasnt enough and Bevo came out on top.

i guess all in a days work for the girls and i think the event was successful.  its still pretty grass roots but it is a step and hopefully next year we can get some good waves again.  Thanks Betty Depolito for putting on a great event and allowing the women to showcase their skills at pipe.

This week Im in Ecuador for the  ISA  Quiksilver world junior championships.  I ended up here because two months ago, Rainos Hayes asked me if I would like to coach the girls side of the Hawaii junior team and help with the ladies side of things.  Kahea Hart and Himself run the boys side.  Since my year is pretty freed up and I wanted to do some different things, this seemed like the perfect opportunity to give back to this sport that has given me so much.  I was pretty amped to be a part of such a special event.  Before I left for Australia back in February I did a couple of training sessions with the girls and was pretty amped to work with them.

This event is being held in Salinas Ecuador.  To get here was a mission!! Especially with 12 teenagers , 3 coaches, a few sets of parents and long time supporters of amateur surfing.  I’m not used to checking in with so many people, not have my special seat, and being entertained the whole time I travel basically.  It was very different but a good experience for me.  so 3 5 hour plane rides later, mechanical difficulties, and a few layovers we were finally in Ecuador. (more…)

So the Roxy Pro Gold Coast came to an end.  Steph Gilmore and Melanie Bartels started off right where they left off.  Steph surfed her homebreak of snapper rocks finally and defeated the amazing Hawaiian.  Mel Bartels is a good friend of mine and it is so good to see her get the financial, emotional, and mental support that she has needed for a long time.  She really stepped up her game this event.  It was so cool to see the whole womens tour has gone up a couple of levels and really putting some flare and mixing it up this year.  The top 18 on the Asp Woimens World Tour are all capable of winning a world title and their all looking at the top of their game. (more…)

On the first lay day of the Roxy Pro I went down to Byron Bay for the Sunday markets. I don’t particularly like markets but a lil Byron Bay on a Sunday mixed with the markets sounded very interesting to me so decided to give it a go and head an hour south of the goldie.

A few of the girls decided to join in the trek: Lee Anne Curren, Rosie Hodge, Amee Donohoe and Nikita Robb. Lucky for me I was jus a passenger cuz Amee’s Donohoes dad drove the whole way so I just checked out the rolling hills. (more…)

So I have been in oz for a week now and it is always so surreal coming here. This country is just so surfer friendly. It has the only airline in the world that doesn’t charge you a cent for your surfboards and there is a pub on every amazing surf break along the entire coast. For instance you can sit at the snapper surf lifesaving club and have your favorite schooner and watch the sunset and 400 surfers fighting it out on one of the worlds longest righthand point breaks. The only buildings that are even really allowed on the beach are these surf lifesaving clubs. It is a surfers paradise really and from my room I can see the actual Surfers Paradise. (more…)